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Simplifying the Art of Sashiko

embroidery hand-stitching visible mending Jan 17, 2025
Sashiko stitching on denim

Sashiko stitching is a beautiful type of embroidery that I use in decorating special projects and repairing denim. This Japanese stitching technique is magical in the way the patterns reveal themselves with a simple running stitch.😃🪡 

Many of the Japanese designs are based on a grid, making it necessary to mark on your fabric with a ruler and your choice of marking tool. Erasable marking pens, chalk liners, and quilting pencils are a few of the options I've tried, but in recent projects I've used a new product that is such a game-changer for my sashiko stitching that it deserves a mention!🥇

Sulky 'Stitch 'n Stich' is a self-adhesive product that rinses away with water. It's ideal for anyone wanting to mark out/print an embroidery pattern, stick onto the base fabric while stitching, then wash away when stitching is complete. Stick 'n Stitch feels like a thin interfacing when it's on your fabric, and doesn't gum up your needle like some of the other adhesives will.

The beauty of this product is that it is PRINTABLE. For sashiko stitching, this can save an enormous amount of time, as the Stick 'n Stitch can be printed with any-sized grid and used as a guide. Find a math drills website that has free downloadable graph paper and print whatever sized grid you need!

Sticking these grids onto my clothing/fabric for stitching is by far the fastest way I have ever marked fabric. So much time saved!🙌

 The pattern I have used in this post is one of the many hitomezashi patterns. These patterns are based on a one stitch/grid mark pattern and run back and forth along the the grid. The larger your grid, the larger the stich. The example below is a 1/4" grid, and stitching begins at one side of the grid and continues across, alternating the position of the stitches and gaps row by row. 

 This is a stretch denim I am working on, and the adhesive holds the fabric perfectly straight with no distortion at all. There is no fear of faded lines (hello chalk-marking😏) and wasted time of having to re-mark grid lines. Stitching moves quickly and smoothly with the printed grid as the guide! I always try to load multiple stitches onto my needle before pulling it through for even, straight stitches.

  Once the horizontal rows are complete, I turn my stitchwork 90° so the vertical stitches can be sewn. This is where the magic happens and the pattern reveals itself🤩

The pattern I am working on is called the Yamagata (mountain form). To create the diagonal line, stitch the grid with alternating stitch/gap rows (the same way the horizontal lines were stitched). When you want to change the direction of the diagonal (as I did in the centre of this patch) , simply repeat the same stitch pattern for 1 row, and this pair of matching rows will move the diagonal in the opposite direction. Like magic!🪄 You can change directions as often as you like in this pattern by stitching a pair of matching rows. There are many variations to try, and it really is amazing each and every time I stitch it.

Once the stitching is complete, it's time to remove the adhesive grid.

Using the sprayer on a kitchen tap, run the fabric under water for a few minutes and the Stitck 'n Stitch will dissolve away. If you don't have a sprayer, the fabric can also be soaked in warm water for a few minutes. Rub the stitches gently to ensure all of the product is removed.

 The denim can be left to air dry, or at times I like to speed up the process with a warm iron. This patch is now ready to be used in my next repair or project! 

 

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